Here’s the write up on the Middle Fork of the Flathead River that didn’t make it into my guidebook. I finally got to paddle the big whitewater section of the Middle Fork in June 2021 (we put in at a hike-in paddlers access spot that is not listed below…we took out at the Old Bridge in West Glacier and paddled roughly 3.5 miles of fairly continuous whitewater). It was awesome. And big. And scary. And awesome. I was with a crew of experts from the Flathead who paddle it regularly and had full safety gear including throw ropes, first aid, and more.
The River
The Middle Fork of the Flathead River is another Wild and Scenic-designated gem that alongside its siblings, the North and South Forks of the Flathead, drains some of Montana’s wildest country.
Starting deep in the Bob Marshall Wilderness Area, where Strawberry Creek meets Bowl Creek, the Middle Fork lurches its way north and west for about 90 miles, flowing through both the Bob Marshall and Great Bear Wilderness Areas. For much of its length, the Middle Fork forms the southern boundary of Glacier National Park and runs parallel to Highway 2.
Public access is generally good, especially along the lower section of the river that runs along the highway. From Essex to Blankenship, public access points are conveniently located every 10-15 miles. The upper wilderness section of the river is accessible by hiking, packing, or bush plane only.
All of the Middle Fork feels wild and unspoiled, even the section along the highway which is generally far enough from the river to remain hidden from view. It’s known as a whitewater river for good reason as it contains some of the best whitewater in the state, both in the wilderness section and in the lower section. The upper wilderness section is one of the premiere wilderness floats in the state and challenges paddlers with Class II-IV water in a true wilderness setting. The much-closer-to-town, Class II-IV run from Moccasin Creek to West Glacier is popular with locals and whitewater rafting companies. In 2018, Moccasin Creek Access Site was determined to be the most popular spot on all three forks of the Flathead with an average of 73 crafts and 449 people floating by per day.
Along its entire run, the Middle Forks cuts through gorgeous scenery. The rugged and remote mountains of the Bob Marshall and Great Bear Wilderness Areas provide the backdrop for the upper river, and Glacier’s peaks rise above the river after it passes by Essex and becomes the park’s southern boundary. Grizzly bears are thick throughout this area and paddling with bear spray is recommended. This region is often beset by fickle weather and a warm, sunny day can quickly turn cold and wet. Having high-quality gear is a prerequisite for paddling any of the forks of the Flathead, and the Middle Fork in particular.
The Paddling
The Middle Fork is generally considered a whitewater river. The upper wilderness section is definitely an experts-only run containing Class IV rapids at high water and requiring expedition-level experience and gear. Most floating on the upper river begins at Schafer Meadows; the river above Schafer is narrow, woody, and more like a stream than a navigable river. Getting to Shafer requires a bush plane or a 15-mile hike or pack trip. Lugging boards, paddles, camping gear and food for 15 rugged miles is nearly impossible, so hiring a plane or a pack train is recommended.
From Schafer to Essex, the Middle Fork serves up about 30 miles of experts-only, wilderness paddling. Class III and IV rapids require scouting and likely difficult portaging through narrow canyons. Paddlers have to carry enough gear and food to be self-supported for two or three days, adding to the complexity. Requirements include helmets, dry suits, high-quality inflatable boards, and expert-level skills, making this portion unsuitable for all but the most prepared and self-sufficient paddlers. In recent years, this section of the Middle Fork has become popular with expert pack rafters. Their boats are light enough to hike into the put in and rugged enough to handle the whitewater. I’d love to report how I successfully paddled this section on a standup, but I haven’t done it – the logistics too complicated, the water too difficult, and the lure of other parts of the Middle Fork too strong. Paddlers interested in this trip would do well to scour packrafting and whitewater kayaking forums for detailed information on this section of the Middle Fork. Water levels make a huge difference on all Montana rivers and the Middle Fork is no exception. Local standup paddlers who have paddled this told me they prefer to run this section when the Essex Gauge is showing between 1,000 and 1,200 CFS. Below that, you’ll end up dragging a lot in the upper 6 miles. Above that, the rapids will be bigger, meatier, and more dangerous.
When the Middle Fork leaves the Great Bear Wilderness at Bear Creek and begins its run along Highway 2, it mellows a bit. The 5 miles between Bear Creek and Essex serve up three rapids. The first is a Class II boulder garden immediately below Bear Creek put in, and it’s followed by two Class III rapids (Class IV at peak flows) located above and below the Goat Lick Overlook Site. The first of these is called Staircase Rapids and the second is the Goat Lick Rapid. Both can be portaged as needed.
From Essex to Cascadilla Creek, the Middle Fork is an awesome intermediate run with Class II riffles, fun, fast turns, and crystal-clear water. The one exception is Browns Hole rapid, which can be a Class III at higher water. It hits at river mile 38.5, roughly 3 miles downstream from the Paolo Creek put in. When I paddled it in mid-August, water levels were low, and we simply walked our boards around the ledge and lined them through a shallow channel that had formed on river right.
From Cascadilla to Moccasin Creek, the river flows through a wide flood plain. This 8-mile stretch is best known for log jams and braids. Unfortunately, Moccasin Creek is considered a put in only. The access site is along a side channel, upstream of where the channel meets the river proper, and it’s very difficult to find from the river. If you miss it, you’re in for a wild ride as the Middle Fork’s biggest rapids come in the section below Moccasin Creek. In short, despite Cascadilla to Moccasin looking like fun paddle, it’s best avoided.
From Moccasin Creek to West Glacier, the Middle Fork is busy and rowdy. This is the classic Middle Fork whitewater run and it’s packed with rafting companies and local whitewater fans. The first 3 miles below Moccasin are mellow enough, but after that, the rapids come in quick succession. While local nomenclature may differ, the Forest Service labels them in this way, heading downstream: Tunnel Rapids (Class III), Bonecrusher (Class III), Washboard (Class II), Big Squeeze (Class III), Jaws (Class IV), Pin Ball (Class IV), Repeater Rapids (Class II), The Notch (Class III) and Pumphouse Rapids (Class II). Adding to the danger, they all hit in a fast 3.5-mile section of water. These ratings are most accurate when the river is running high, but even in the summer, after the water has receded and the weather has warmed up, this section is burly. Experts with helmets, whitewater pads, quick-release leashes, and top-notch skills will have a blast. Intermediates should stick to the stretches between Essex and Cascadilla.
From West Glacier to Blankenship Bridge, the Middle Fork is again suitable for intermediates. Devil’s Elbow Rapid is a Class II obstruction at river mile 11 where the Middle Fork takes a couple of sharp turns that require some quick paddle work to stay on the right line. At low water, adventurous beginners could likely handle this stretch if they’re with competent paddlers who can demonstrate the right line and help during a capsize.
From Bear Creek to West Glacier, many of the Middle Fork’s access sites provide semi-developed camping opportunities and the southern shore is generally open to camping below the normal high-water mark. The northern shore is part of Glacier National Park and camping is restricted if not totally prohibited. Human waste must be packed out and fire pans or blankets may be required for all wild camping along the Essex to West Glacier section of the river, but opportunities exist for those interested in an overnight along the Middle Fork.
Few rivers in Montana rival the Middle Fork. While it’s not appropriate for beginning paddlers (with the possible exception of West Glacier to Blankenship Bridge at low water), intermediates and experts will relish some of the best paddling in the state. Expert paddlers looking for a real-deal wilderness adventure can test their mettle on the upper section. This is a full on, expedition-style paddle that requires handling complicated logistics, paddling difficult Class III and IV water in a remote and inaccessible setting, and camping in grizzly bear country. Intermediates will have a blast paddling the 30 odd miles between Essex and Moccasin Creek (again, be aware that taking out at Moccasin Creek is VERY DIFFICULT and missing it means you’ll be paddling burly whitewater). Experts can (and do) run the rapids between Moccasin and West Glacier and can have a blast surfing on Pumphouse Rapids at the right water levels. All told, the Middle Fork rightfully has a place on the short list of Montana’s best rivers.
Details and Logistics
- Access – Numerous put ins provide access every 10 to 15 miles along the Middle Fork from Bear Creek to West Glacier. The upper river is accessible via bush plane, hiking or pack-train.
- Length of run – Twenty-seven miles from Schafer Meadows to Bear Creek. Forty-six miles from Bear Creek to Blankenship Bridge, with access points every 10-15 miles or so.
- Level of difficulty – Intermediate to expert. Experts-only from Schafer Meadows to Bear Creek. Intermediate from Bear Creek to Cascadilla. Experts-only from Moccasin Creek to West Glacier. Intermediate from West Glacier to Blankenship Bridge (practiced beginners could handle the section from West Glacier to Blankenship at low water if with a group).
- Best time/flows to float – After peak runoff (late-June to mid-July depending on the year). The Middle Fork is fed by the abundant snowfall that comes early and stays late in this part of Montana. While rivers in other parts of the state may have receded by early July, the Middle Fork is often still swollen with cold water. Most paddlers should wait until late July or August to attempt the Middle Fork.
- Safety equipment – Helmet, PFD, sun protection, releasable board leash, extra food, dry clothes, high quality river shoes. Wet or dry suits, pads, helmets, rescue equipment required for upper river and for whitewater section upstream of West Glacier.
- Hazards – Remote setting, large rapids, big and small wave trains, cold and fast water, sharp turns, log jams, dead-end channels, long swim potential, headwinds, submerged logs and boulders, sweepers and strainers, headwinds, and lack of cell service.
Key Access Points along Middle Fork Flathead River
Access Point…………………………………………………………………………..(River Mile)
Schafer Meadows…………………………………………………………………………..(73)
Bear Creek…………………………………………………………………………………….(46)
Essex Bridge………………………………………………………………………………….(41)
Paola Creek…………………………………………………………………………………..(33)
Cascadilla Creek…………………………………………………………………………….(22)
Moccasin Creek……………………………………………………………………………..(14)
West Glacier Bridge………………………………………………………………………..(6)
Blankenship Bridge…………………………………………………………………………(0)
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