Here is the write of the Gallatin River that didn’t make it into my guidebook. The Gallatin is an experts-only river. Even the lower section that doesn’t have as many rapids has wood and other entrapment hazards that aren’t suitable for beginners. Only the section just above and in Missouri River Headwaters State Park is suitable for advanced beginners.
The River
Ask any whitewater paddler worth their paddling helmet to name the top whitewater rivers in Montana and the Gallatin is sure to be at the top of their list. With a Class IV section called the “Mad-mile” and more than 40 miles of Class II and III paddling, it deserves a spot on the short list of Montana’s best whitewater rivers.
After rising in the northwestern corner of Yellowstone National Park, the Gallatin flows north for about 115 miles to the Missouri River Headwaters State Park where it meets the just-formed Missouri River (the Madison and Jefferson Rivers meet a few miles south of where the Gallatin comes in to form the Missouri River proper). Access along the river is excellent as Highway 191 runs along most of its length and it touches pockets of public land for much of its journey.
From the first public access site in Montana, the Taylor Creek Access Site at river mile 85, to the mouth of the Gallatin Canyon at river mile 45, the Gallatin runs through the gorgeous Gallatin Canyon. Forested slopes, steep rocky cliffs, bold outcroppings and everything in between make this a very scenic river – if you can take your eyes off the fast-moving water long enough to take it all in.
Downstream of the canyon mouth, the river slows down and braids its way through agricultural lands for roughly 30 miles. A few diversion dams (river miles 46, 38 and 34), shallow water, and frequent log jams make this section frustrating for rafters and anglers, but floatable for solid intermediate standup paddlers looking for adventure and willing to deal with some bush-whacky portages. Cottonwood forests, thick riparian vegetation, and big gravel bars mark the lower Gallatin.
After the Gallatin confluences with the East Fork of the Gallatin, it flows for about 12 miles until it meets the Missouri. This section is marked by braids, gravel bars, and shallow water as it winds through pastoral ranchlands outside of Bozeman. Logan Bridge marks the half-way point of this short section and downstream from there, the river braids even more frequently on its way to the Missouri.
Access is excellent all along the Gallatin, though the upper river flows through more public land than the lower river and consequently has a few more access sites. Forest Service campgrounds are scattered throughout Gallatin Canyon, including some right along the river and others up in the mountains. They all provide overnight options on the upper river and access to the area’s abundant hiking and other recreational opportunities.
The Paddling
The Gallatin is known as a whitewater river and for good reason. Virtually none of the Gallatin is suitable for beginning river standup paddlers. Advanced intermediates and experts will have fun on most parts of the Gallatin later in the summer when peak flows subside, but the section from Greek Creek to Storm Castle Creek (formerly known as Squaw Creek) is true experts-only water and even experts may decide it’s too much. There’s a reason the upper 40 miles of Montana’s Gallatin are considered some of the best whitewater in the state. Regardless of your skills, it’s best to wait until water levels drop in mid-July to standup paddle any of the Gallatin.
Paddling officially starts at the Taylor Creek Access Site at river mile 85. From there to the Shady Rest Access Site, just south of Big Sky where the West Fork of the Gallatin flows in, it’s Class II water with fast, tight turns, constant riffles, and some big waves. The whole run is 16 miles, but several access points split it up into shorter sections. Downed trees and shallow water late in the summer require heads-up paddling, but this stretch isn’t overly technical. Red Cliff Campground to Shady Rest Access Site is a nice 8-mile run on the upper river.
The whitewater starts downstream of the Deer Creek Access Site at river mile 66, about 3 miles south of Big Sky and the Shady Rest Access Site. From there to Greek Creek, it’s mostly busy Class II water with even tighter turns and faster currents than the section above. The main exception is a Class III rapid near where Portal Creek comes in. While the water here is generally Class II, it’s nearly constant Class II. The boulders require fast paddle work. Sharp turns with downed logs are always on the horizon. There’s little time for recovery.
From Greek Creek at river mile 59 to the mouth of the Gallatin Canyon at river mile 45, the river flows fast and intense. Only true experts with quality gear and a deep knowledge of swiftwater rescue should consider paddling this section, and most experts would be better off skipping it altogether. From Greek Creek to Cascade Creek Bridge (also known as the 35 MPH Bridge), there’s 6 miles of tricky Class III, with Screaming Left Turn and Hilarity Hole standing out as the two most challenging rapids in this stretch. On the 3-mile run from Cascade Bridge to Storm Castle, the Gallatin’s whitewater really kicks in. House Rock Rapid at river mile 53 is a Class IV and marks the start of the Mad Mile. For more than a mile downstream of House Rock, paddlers have to deal with constant Class III water, big boulders, and a few Class IV drops. There’s virtually no time for recovery and the rapids are continuous. This is where the Gallatin Whitewater Festival is held each year, which demonstrates the difficulty. Downstream of Storm Castle, the Gallatin continues its rapid descent with Class III water all the way to the Kirk River Access Site, a couple of miles above the canyon mouth. A dangerous diversion dam sits between Kirk and the canyon mouth at river mile 46, roughly eight-tenths of a mile above where Highway 191 crosses from the east side of the river to the west side.
There are loads of commercial rafting companies that run this stretch of the Gallatin so paddlers looking to get a feel for the water can sign up for a rafting trip. Additionally, Highway 191 runs along the river and ample pull offs allow curious paddlers to scout various sections and watch the carnage.
Downstream of the mouth of the Gallatin Canyon, the river remains difficult despite slowing down. Experienced intermediates could test their skills on the lower Gallatin, but numerous braids, log jams that fully block the channel, and diversion dams make this stretch dangerous at high water and challenging at low water. Wait until the water comes down in mid-July and go with an experienced group if you want to explore this section of the river.
If you put in a Kirk, watch out for the diversion dam at river mile 46. Downstream of Williams Bridge, the river braids frequently. Navigation is tricky as many of the braids run out of water at lower flows and log jams are a constant threat. There’s a diversion dam just below the Gallatin Gateway Bridge and several below the Axtell Road Bridge. While you may miss one or more of these depending on which channel you take, this section of the river demands constant attention and a willingness to walk or drag your board as you navigate the channels. Entrapment is a serious threat here, so quick-release leashes are mandatory. You may want to go leashless. Short fins are also a good idea since water levels can get low due to the constant braiding and agricultural withdrawals. Also, this section is bordered by mostly private land, so be aware of trespassing.
The river remains braided and tricky downstream of the Highway 84 Bridge all the way to the Interstate 90 Bridge, northwest of Bozeman. At lower water, solid intermediates can try this section, but log jams, low water, and difficult navigation are real hazards. After the river passes under the Interstate, it meets the East Fork of the Gallatin roughly two miles north of Manhattan at the Gallatin Forks River Access Site.
The 6-mile stretch between the confluence of the East Fork and Logan Bridge is the only section of the Gallatin where beginning river paddlers can try their luck. If you’re new to SUP, get some practice elsewhere, but if you know the basic strokes and have good balance, you can try this short stretch. Put in at Nixon Bridge and float to Logan Bridge. From Logan Bridge to its confluence with the Missouri River, the Gallatin gets more braided and more difficult. Tight turns, log jams, and shallow water make this final stretch suitable for intermediates at low water. Beginners could paddle the last couple of miles of the Gallatin after it enters Missouri River Headwaters State Park. Reaching the river from inside the park requires walking a few hundred yards east of Trident Road and scrambling down a cut bank. It’s not prohibitively difficult, but it’s not as easy as putting in at a developed river access site.
There’s no doubt that the Gallatin River is a Montana classic. Bozeman-based kayakers and whitewater rafters have a blast on the river’s upper 40 miles. But there’s more to the Gallatin than just pounding whitewater. After spring flooding recedes, the uppermost 20 miles will thrill intermediate paddleboarders with fast, shallow, water. True experts willing to take long dangerous swims through boulder gardens can contemplate paddling the Gallatin’s whitewater sections, though I don’t recommend it. Downstream of the mouth of the Gallatin Canyon, experts and advanced intermediates can find solitude but need to be mindful of diversion dams, log jams, and dead-end side channels. Give yourself plenty of time to float these river sections as you’ll likely have to drag your boat over gravel bars, around log jams, and around diversion dams. The final 12 miles of the Gallatin are appropriate for intermediates and practiced beginners with solid paddle skills and an adventurous attitude. Public access is excellent along the entire river with Forest Service and Montana FWP sites every 4 or 5 miles.
Details and Logistics
- Access – From Taylor Creek to the Missouri River Headwaters State Park, access points exist every 5 miles or so along the Gallatin. Highway 191 runs along most of the river, making access easy.
- Length of run – Varies depending on put in and take out. The Gallatin is best for day paddles. While there are campgrounds along it, the water is too difficult for loaded boards.
- Level of difficulty – Practiced beginners to expert. The upper Gallatin is suitable for intermediates and experts. Downstream of Greek Creek, the Gallatin is rowdy and dangerous and not really suitable for SUP. From the mouth of the Gallatin Canyon to Nixon Bridge, intermediates willing to portage log jams, diversion dams, and dead-end channels can try their luck. Practiced beginners can try from Nixon to Logan and again in the state park.
- Best time/flows to float – Well after peak runoff. Don’t try the Gallatin at highwater.
- Safety equipment – For all but the whitewater section: PFD, sun protection, quick-release leash, food, dry clothes, river shoes. For the whitewater section: PFD, helmet, body padding, quick release leash, drysuit/wetsuit, river shoes/booties, throw bag, dry clothes, partner, whistle, a small dose of crazy.
- Hazards – Fast current, sharp turns, sweepers, strainers, log jams, wading anglers, submerged boulders, wave trains, braided, shallow channels, diversion dams, lack of cell service. The whitewater section has huge boulders, big drops, and near constant whitewater.
Key Access Points along the Gallatin River
Access Point……………………………………………………………………………….(River Mile)
Red Cliff……………………………………………………………………………………………..(77)
Porcupine Creek Bridge……………………………………………………………………….(73)
Shady Rest…………………………………………………………………………………………..(69)
Deer Creek…………………………………………………………………………………………..(66)
Durham Meadow Bridge………………………………………………………………………(63)
Moose Creek Flat………………………………………………………………………………….(61)
Greek Creek………………………………………………………………………………………….(59)
Cascade Creek Bridge…………………………………………………………………………..(56)
Storm Castle Bridge (formerly Squaw Creek Bridge)………………………………(53)
Kirk Wildlife Refuge FAS…………………………………………………………………………(47)
Gallatin Canyon Mouth…………………………………………………………………………..(45)
Axtell Bridge FAS…………………………………………………………………………………….(36)
Shed’s Bridge FAS……………………………………………………………………………………(33)
Cameron Bridge FAS……………………………………………………………………………….(27)
Erwin Bridge FAS……………………………………………………………………………………..(24)
Central Park…………………………………………………………………………………………….(19)
Four Corners FAS…………………………………………………………………………………….(16)
Gallatin Forks FAS……………………………………………………………………………………(12)
Logan Bridge……………………………………………………………………………………………(6)
Missouri River Headwaters State Park………………………………………………………(0)
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